Q. Do I need a rubber membrane or synthetic underlayment under metal roofing panels?
A. A synthetic underlayment is the best choice as a state of the art barrier against water infiltration. You should always use a high quality underlayment in a valley condition or any other detail that is likely to be difficult to seal. A peel and stick type rubber underlayment is also recommended at the eave and up to at least 24” past the exterior wall in a northern climate to help prevent water from entering the roof due to ice damming. It should also be used on very low slopes and when the metal panels are not sealed at their side laps.
A. Metal roofing and siding can easily be installed using standard hand tools such as a screw gun, hammer, metal snips, caulk gun, chalk line and tape measure. Cutting metal panels is best accomplished with an electric metal shear; however, panels may be easily cut with a circular saw with a metal cutting abrasive blade. Standing seam roof systems require hand or mechanical cutting tools readily available at most hardware outlets or you can visit our tools section.
Q. How do I attach metal panels?
A. You may use either screws or nails—both color matched to the color of your roof. Screw fasteners are preferred over nails for superior pullout resistance and weathertightness. Screws fasteners are designed to go into the flat part of the panel. Nails MUST GO in the high rib of the panel.
Fasteners are typically spaced 24” on center.
Q. I’m not sure I want to do this. Can I hire someone?
A. Yes, you can. While most of our customers do the work themselves, there are a number who hire out the work. We offer a few suggestions on finding a contractor in order to assist you in this case.
Q. Can I use a lead pencil to mark on my metal panels?
A. No. Standard lead pencils, or those made with graphite, will accelerate the corrosion of the metal near the mark. You can use masking tape and mark on the tape to prevent corrosion—plus, masking tape is easier to see.
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