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Q. Can I use a
lead pencil to mark on my metal panels?
A. No. Standard lead pencils, or those made
with graphite, will accelerate the corrosion of the metal
near the mark. You can use masking tape and mark on the tape
to prevent corrosion—plus, masking tape is easier to
see.
Q. Do I need a
rubber membrane underlayment under metal roofing panels?
A. A rubber membrane underlayment is always
a good idea as an additional barrier against water infiltration.
You should always use one under a valley condition or any
other detail that is likely to be difficult to seal. A rubber
underlayment is also recommended at the eave and up to at
least 24” past the exterior wall in a northern climate
to help prevent water from entering the roof due to ice damming.
It should also be used on very low slopes and when the metal
panels are not sealed at their side laps.
 Q.
Are any special tools required?
A. Metal roofing and siding can easily be
installed using standard hand tools such as a screw gun, hammer,
metal snips, caulk gun, chalk line and tape measure. Cutting
metal panels is best accomplished with an electric metal shear;
however, panels may be easily cut with a circular saw with
a metal cutting abrasive blade. Standing seam roof systems
require hand or mechanical cutting tools readily available
at most hardware outlets or you can visit our tools
section.
Q. How do I attach metal panels?
A. You may use either screws or nails—both
color matched to the color of your roof. Screw fasteners are
preferred over nails for superior pullout resistance and weathertightness.
Screws fasteners are designed to go into the flat part of
the panel. Nails MUST GO in the high rib of the panel.
Fasteners are typically spaced 24” on center.
Q. I'm not sure I want to do
this. Can I hire someone?
A. Yes, you can. While most of our customers
do the work themselves, there are a number who hire out the
work. We offer a few suggestions
on finding a contractor in order to assist you in this
case.
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